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Easy Techniques for Medicating Your Cat

Posted Tue, Jul 31, 2007, 10:00 am PDT

Giving a pill:

The traditional position for pilling your cat is to place her on an elevated surface. But because it can be a struggle to keep her there, here's an alternative method.

Kneel on the floor, sitting back on your heels. Open your legs in a V position and place the cat in the center of the V, facing away from you at an angle. If she tries to back away, she'll have nowhere to go. Wear jeans or long pants to prevent scratches.

Put your palm over her head and apply gentle pressure to either side of her mouth, behind her canine teeth, with your thumb on one side and your index finger on the other. Hold the pill in your other hand between thumb and index finger. Use another finger of the hand holding the pill to pry open the mouth by putting pressure on the lower jaw. Place the pill on the back of the tongue. Don't toss the pill down her throat, or you'll risk aspiration.

Coating the pill with butter may help it go down more easily as well.

When you're done, don't clamp the mouth closed, or she'll be unable to swallow.

Offer a drink of water afterward. Humans don't take pills dry, and animals shouldn't either. If she doesn't want any water though, don't force her.

Try offering a treat before and after the pill. Sometimes this distracts her enough that you'll be able to pill her quickly.

Giving liquid medication:

Use the positioning technique described above.

Liquid medication can be dispensed into the pouch between the cat's cheek and molars. Slide the dropper into the pouch and release the medication. Don't administer all of it at once, or it'll dribble out of her mouth. Instead, give a little at a time, allowing her to swallow.

Pam's Tip:

Your demeanor is important. If you're tense or angry, your cat will pick up on that and become afraid. Stay calm and positive.

See my previous blog entry, "Kitty Tough to Medicate? Try These Tips!," to learn about medication options that may make life easier for you and your cat!

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  • 1. cutlermac - 10:33AM on 07/31/07

    Good info.

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  • 2. lmr6447 - 1:06PM on 07/31/07

    ok now tell me how to catch my cat after I have done this once?????

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  • 3. camp-xray@sbcglobal.net - 7:13PM on 07/31/07

    if you want to catch her, don't think about or "picture" in you mind what you are going to do, she will sense this and she knows your intentions, think about something unrelated and get her to come to you with pure love and affection

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  • 4. Thelma Josenhans - 11:55PM on 07/31/07

    A better way , ...... use a pill cutter , cut the pill in 4 small pieces, coat each piece with a little butter on wax paper , place in the fridge for 10 minues , put the cold , butter , pills on the cats food , cover a little more food , over it lightly , they will eat it , no problem , have sick cats , from poison , pet food , have been treating them , like this , for months. Good luck...... Thel

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  • 5. Cat - 10:13AM on 08/01/07

    Good advice. I wish I had these tips when my little one was sick last year. She was very adamant about not taking her meds. Any advice on teaching a cat (not a kitten) to use a scratching post and not the furniture?

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  • 6. Damienne S - 11:02AM on 08/01/07

    I am cat sitting and wrap the cat in a towel and put her on the kitchen counter and give her the liquid medicine. I think it will help her not go on the counter after this. She's not the sharpest tack in the box, so perhaps the lesson will be forgotten, but for now she stays out of the kitchen.

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  • 7. wildernesstraveller - 2:57PM on 08/01/07

    Another method often used is put the pill in a small food meatball and give it that way. Cats who are on a dry diet will think they are getting a treat. This tehnique is preferable if the cat is eating and causes the least amount of stress.

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  • 8. boatmeal - 5:25PM on 08/01/07

    If you are lucky enough to have another person that can help you, I've found a good way to give cats their pills. Wrap the cat in a blanket so its head is sticking out, and hold the cat facing away from you (hold them as tight as you can without hurting them, but tight enough so that they can't go anywhere). Have your "assistant" rub the cat's throat so that they open their mouth, and slip the pill in their mouth. Then have them hold their mouth closed and rub their throat so that the cat swallows the pill.

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  • 9. chocoholicsue - 5:37PM on 08/01/07

    what do you do when you have feral cats and they don't let you even pick them up?

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  • 10. lvrest - 6:58PM on 08/01/07

    Cream cheese is a great way to hide pills. My vet also told me to grab the cat by the scruff of the neck and gently shake her (sort of mimics the way a mother cat would carry the kittens)

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  • 11. karen e - 8:09PM on 08/01/07

    I have had my baby girl since she was 3 days old. Her mother was sick and dying and I fell in love with this kitten. So I took her with me everywhere and bottel feed her and she nursed on my dog for 12 weeks. She was born with a respatory infection and weighed less then a pound. I had to give her three different meds and an eye cream. She still to this day gets the resp. infection every so often and LOVES to get medicine. It's so funny, I call her and she comes running. BTW: the vet told me she didnt have a chance and would never make it. a year later she is the happiest, most spoiled princess in the world. LOL, we showed him!!!

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  • 12. GrammarGirl95 - 10:07PM on 08/01/07

    If your cat is feral, mixing meds with food will be your best bet. I just "adopted" a feral cat and he's on antibiotics and hookworm meds. I mix these with a good amount of wet food and he bolts it right down. However, I was unable to give him his pain meds when he was neutered. They told me to shoot it into that pocket next to his gums, but you've got to be kidding. When I tried, he nearly bit right through my thumb. On the bright side, he actually jumped up on the couch next to me this evening and started licking my toes. Can oral medications be far behind? :-)

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  • 13. schrodinger_hated_cats - 6:58AM on 08/02/07

    I'm a veterinary tech in an all-feline practice and I have been in this business for MANY, MANY years. We teach our clients how to give pills all the time. Here is what we teach our folks and our staff: When giving pills, work from the side or the back rather than coming from directly in front of the kitty. It's a lot less intimidating to the kitty that way. Talk sweet throughout the whole process and tell the kitty what a good boy/girl s/he is. Draw the kitty fairly close to you and rub a little butter or yummy stuff on his lips so he will lick it off. This will get his mouth to water and make it much easier to swallow the pill. Now grasp the kitty's head from over the top, placing your thumb and fingers along the jawline. You'll feel the "hinges" of the jaws (called the 'coronoid process'on the lower jaw and the 'mastoid process' just above it on the upper jaw)-- gently hook your thumb and fingers into this area and lift the kitty's head back until he's looking toward the ceiling. Don't worry... you WON'T hurt him, even if he fusses and hollers like the very devil has hold of him! I promise. After all, he'll take the same pose while he's staring at that moth on the ceiling. See, with his head back like that, it's very hard for the kitty to clench his jaws shut. Hold the pill in your other hand between your thumb, the first finger and the "naughty finger", and use your ring finger of the pill hand to gently open the kitty's mouth. Now, without letting go of the head, drop the pill toward the back of the tongue into the little V-shaped pocket that you'll see if you look back down into the kitty's mouth. Don't let go quite yet! Quickly take another bit of the yummy stuff that you used in the beginning and rub it on his lips again, and lower the head just a little bit. As the kitty licks the good stuff off his lips, he should swallow the pill automatically. If the cat struggles and fights, you can try using a big old heavy bath or beach towel. Get the towel and cut a SMALL slit just big enough to fit the cat's head through but not big enough to let him fit a paw through. Think "BARBER SHOP". Slip the towel over the cat's head and use some strong clothesline or thin rope to snugly tie the bottom off like a sack, so the back feet are contained as well. All you should have now is a cat bundled up in a towel with only the head poking out. Now follow the same instructions, but this time with the cat all bundled up and unable to scratch or escape. A sturdy old canvas drawstring sack works well, too-- just pop the kitty in the sack and draw the ties up around his neck just enough to keep him from popping a paw out. Liquids are much easier. Basically the steps are the same, but instead of opening the cat's mouth, you take the syringe or dropper of liquid medicine and slip the tip between the back teeth (cheek) and slowly squeeze the medicine a little at a time into the cat's mouth, giving kitty a chance to swallow. You also don't have to tilt the head quite as far back. After giving the meds, BE SURE to PRAISE the kitty, even if he struggled. Tell him that taking meds is GOOD. If it's just impossible to get a pill down (or liquid), ask your vet if the medicine comes in a different formulation. Some cats do better with pills, while some do better with liquids. Liquid is NOT always easier... some cats do better with pills because they can't taste the medicine so readily. For others, the liquid is easier. You can also invest in a "pill popper"... a long plastic gadget with a rub

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  • 14. Robert Q - 9:20AM on 08/02/07

    Ok! Now what do I do? I have bought the sprays, and the cat alarms to no avail. The sprays the cats ignore. The alarm worked for about three hours and then they got use to it and ignore it too. One is still using everywhere but the litter box to do her duty. My curtains are in shreds which makes my house look like one of poverty. None of the products that I have bought on this site seems to work. I am almost at wits end. Can someone PLEASE, PLEASE,PLEASE give me some suggestions.

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  • 15. Kristina - 11:42AM on 08/02/07

    Is the littler box VERY clean, not smelly at all?? And could you replace your curtains with shorter ones?? Kitties are not trying to be naughty....only wanting to play / expend energy / have something to do! I specifically do not buy long curtains, and scoop / change the litter box all the time...it helps here!!

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  • 16. westlynn7 - 11:45AM on 08/02/07

    kennel your cat in a crate with a litterbox in it. i had to do this for my senile cat before she died.

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  • 17. Robert Q - 12:58PM on 08/02/07

    Thanks for the advice. Most of the attacks on the house come when I'm in bed. I live in Costa Rica and long curtains are necessary to prevent the house from becoming an oven. I keep the litter box in my master bathroom shower and they have easy access to it and I do keep it clean and use the cluster litter. My windows are six feet long and five wide and there are fifteen of them. I also have tried the tape which one of the six loves to eat. The prickles on counters are toys to them. I love them dearly but it is MY house and not theirs to destroy. I have hand made furniture with delicate carvings coming in about two months and I am terrified they will destroy it. I think it cruel to kennel six young healthy cats for being cats. All of them are adopted because someone dropped them by my house. Don't worry. They males are spayed and none go outside as my land abuts a very busy road. I want to find a way for them to adjust to MY style of living without catering to their destructive behavior. If one can correct a baby from pulling down articles and become potty trained surely there is a way to do the same for cats as they are not stupid. They get along well with each other, why can't they get along with me as I never hit or abuse them? I guess I have to re-read T.S. Eliot or contact Sir Andrew Lloyd Webber.

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  • 18. prettiface2000 - 1:41PM on 08/02/07

    Robert----first of all you seem very nice.--It isn't easy. I have more than you it's a battle---unfortunately . --I just recently bought those scat mats from Foster and Smith-They hate it naturally--you can't walk on it--throw some in front of your curtains--you'll have to buy a bunch at first but they work and breaks them of the habit--of course you also need more litter boxes---they say try using different types of litter---some of mine use the empty box!!--they are so weird, mine!--But they are wonderful--they are safe--and I would forgo the curtains and get shades--pull-up alittle so they can look out and it's complicated---my cat pees on command when he sees a certain cat outside!--I decided to do w/o curtains-where I can---pergo my floors ---and play with them alot.--lots of boxes---scat mats---and in response to #5--scratching posts work great in my house---I put them all around the furniture--I have the tall ones the short ones all types--the trees they can sit in---the ones with the square box they sleep in- The key is with the scratching post to first put the pads of their front paws and rub them alittle up and down the post --that is where their scent glands are, so they mark it I suppose---whatever the reason after you see the cat using the scratching post--Say to the cat--in a higher happy tone---Oh Stallone good boy what a good boy you are---a few thousand times is fine too!!---Now all my cats when they use a scratching post look at me -it's so funny--they want the attention!!

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  • 19. Babs - 4:38PM on 08/02/07

    To Cat... Who wanted to know a way to teach an adult cat not to claw furniture, what I did with my sons cat was I bought cat nip the real stuff (read the back and make sure it is 100%) I bought a cat post and I rubbed the cat nip all up and down it then I showed the cat she figured out the rest every so often I have to put new cat nip on to remind her but the time period between clawing furniture is getting longer it has been a about 6 months since the last time. Hope this helps

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  • 20. Tina - 5:29PM on 08/02/07

    To Robert--first make sure all the kitties are 'fixed', males and females. Then you need to get more than one litter box. Many times cats do not like to share. Do NOT change cat litter if they get used to one kind...cats like consistancy of feel and smell in their box. Changing to a different kind often makes the problem worse. For the scratching and curtain issue, get lengths of plastic carpet runner that has the 'cleat' like nubs on it and put it nub side up where ever you dont' want the cats. They will walk on it once and not again. I also recommend several scratching posts; small ones are adequate and inexpensive. Coat them with loose catnip (sold everywhere) just rub it in and then let the cats smell it. The rest will come naturally. Good luck.

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  • 21. prettiface2000 - 7:24PM on 08/02/07

    Robert---You definately need more boxes--try one where they pee!-I am not so sure a different type of litter would not be preferrable---I use Yesterday's News and as I said they like that---also like a corner w/o the litter!!---I was reading tips and they do say some cats prefer sand-like litter and some cats do not like to touch it.---It is something for you to ask your vet because the problem is not to change it suddenly---maybe have a seperate box--but ask your vet or a recommended vet.--we are all so-called cat experts!!--yea, right---bottom line it's not one easy answer Again--cat-nip is ok-some cats don't notice it---but an expert did tell me to rub their own front pads of their paws first time they use on the post----that is their scent glands and that is what they are doing---marking their territory----and therefore they will use it.-but if you see them using your couch--gently pick up the cat and take him to the post and rub his paws on it and prause him---it's work but they have to know that is where they scartch--I keep mine by the couches and chairs-all over--like I said---praise them after and they all start doing it-it's funny!---BUT it is not adequete to only use short ones---they definately stretch up and many of mine--I don't know about yours-are tall--I am also not too sure if the plastic runner is "knobby" enough---they are called X-MAT PET TRAINING MAT--10.99 on sale-Foster and Smith-they are not the scat ones I made a mistake---they use no elecricity or alarms-it's worth to invest alittle if you want many cats because it will save you time and trouble---especially if you are buying good things for your home---trust me--I've tried those sprays--they do not work---not for mine---so I feel those mats work great as they are really raised and bumpy--I love them--my cats would pee on a counter --they stopped--they can't stand on that!!--Also-they do have good odor spray and liquids that do work eliminating the smell.--But try alitle of this and alittle of that!--Definately invest on more boxes---xmats and scratching posts-you can try the plastic runner-if that works great ---Also---I am going to ask a T-Touch animal practioner her tips and will get back to you.

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  • 22. Robert Q - 1:30PM on 08/03/07

    I don't know how to begin to thank the many people who responded to my need. The advice CERTAINLY is not going to be ignored. First of all I have added two more litter boxes. As to the litter I must use what I can get and even that is hard to obtain here in Costa Rica. I can get clump litter at the hardware store. My one little one is deaf and is the worst offender. It has taken over a year before I can even pet her a little. All of the males are neutered but to get the females neutered I would have to carry them over forty miles to get it done. Since I do not have a car this makes the trip all but impossible. I shall get the mats and place them all over the place until they learn. Once again, my many thanks for the advice. I guess the old saying is true. Dogs have a master but cats have staff. Say hello to Mr. Cinderella and his wicked step children..

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  • 23. Sandi - 2:11PM on 08/03/07

    The absolute best way to give the medication to "kitty" is definitely the Pill Pocket available at PetSmart. They come in different flavors and have a little pocket to sneak the pill into. I tried every which possible to give my one cat a pill and it was unbelievable on how smart he really was! I cut it into the 4 pieces and hid it in is food. The result, he licked all the food around the pill pieces. I tried the rubbing of the throat, and he gagged it up right in front of me. Same thing with the pill shooter. I then put the pill in the Pill Pocket and he ate it up begging for more treats! Now all I have to do is shake the Pill Pocket bag, yell "Treats" and he comes running to me (no more playing hide and seek when its pill time) I place the pill in the pocket and wham pill time is over! Hope this info helps!

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  • 24. prettiface2000 - 10:44PM on 08/03/07

    Oh great Sandi--I am going to get the pill pocket---My cat runs away when he thinks I'm pilling---every day he gets a heart, plavix --he had parayzed hind legs from blood clot cardiomyothopy but he is walking!!--so I will def. try that one-thnx

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  • 25. letha01bell - 3:52PM on 08/30/07

    Thanks for the advice on the Pill Pocket. My kitty has problems with her teeth (gingivitis), and has infections frequently. I was at my wits ends on how to medicate her. Then I got the Pill Pocket and she LOVES it. Thanks allot!!

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  • 26. li - 2:57PM on 10/01/07

    my 10 year old cat has always peed on rugs and carpets and stuff even the chairs and sofa it is not a health problem she just will not stop doing it... I am very tired of it actually

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  • 27. brina bri - 3:33PM on 10/08/07

    i am truly appaled at what some people do.. just remember.. these poor guys have feelings.. would you want some of this stuff done to you?? uh... fact is.. simple sense works.. c'mon..

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  • 28. karey.harris - 9:37PM on 04/06/08

    Two words: Pill Pockets. You can buy them at pretty much any pet food store, and my cat likes them better than her normal treats! If you have a cat on chronic medication, I'd highly recommend giving it a try. Cats are smart, they know when it's "pilling time".

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  • 29. Lynn V - 10:03AM on 05/11/08

    It was my huz' idea actually. I fill a syringe with water to lubricate her throat, I say 1-2-3 and she'll pull her head back for me and open her mouth for Mommy while I drop the pill in the back of her throat and use the water syringe to help her swallow her pill. She loves this! Peace

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  • 30. do not show - 7:22AM on 07/04/08

    i have 10 cats and all are from the street.as far as giving meds,i have some that are a little skittish and can not be restrained.one has 2 b on ant-biotics 4 1 month and i have had to get transdermal.i can not trick him into sneaking it into his food. i know cats can b very tuff on furniture.try to purchase things that are cat friendly,things that are hard to destroy and not too tempting.microfiber is a good choice for sofa's and chairs.liquids bead up and it is not easy to claw up.i have a sofa w/wooden arms so it is not as tempting as a plushy overstuffed arm that they are sure to scratch. i have chairs that they were starting to destroy.i purchased a sisal mat @walmart for a few bucks sprinkeled catnip on it and put it on the floor between the 2 chairs.they have lost interest in scratching the chairs. i have not had a problem w/them ever destroying my curtins,only getting fur on them,am not sure why. mabe try using a wooden or vinyl blind that they cannot get their claws into.scratching posts set near the windows might help.although i have never been able to interest them in using a scratching post for very long.they prefer the things that are flat on the floor.they make these caredboard things that they love to scratch that uyou can get 4 about $5,but it can get very messy,but it does save them from scratching up the furniture.they do seem to really love the sisal mat. i have no carpet,cannot even have a throw rug b/c i know they will pee on it. i have 3 giant litter boxes,would have more if i had a place to put them.everything on my bed is washable,and i have a waterproof mattress pad too. they are all spayed and neutered,it really makes a difference in mellowing them out. the best way to get rid of urine smell is white vinegar. you can wipe it on or sponge it on.things that can be washed,just wash.i have not found any of the things sold in pet stores to remove odor or address behavioral problems to be very helpful.

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